Byzantine Arta, the jewel of the Despotate of Epirus
Located in Epirus, in northwestern Greece, on the river Arachthos, Arta was an important city in medieval times, succeeding ancient Ambrakia. As a significant ecclesiastical and economic center during the middle Byzantine period, it rose to political prominence after the fragmentation of the Byzantine Empire in 1204. A Byzantine nobleman established Arta as the capital of his newly founded state, which became known as the Despotate of Epirus.
For 150 years, Arta served as the seat of the despots, who fortified the city and constructed religious buildings to enhance their prestige, transforming it into an important cultural and artistic regional center. The weakening of the Despotate eventually allowed the Byzantines to recapture the city, though it later changed hands frequently before finally falling to the Turks. Despite these shifts, Arta preserved a significant legacy of Byzantine monuments, testifying to the original culture and art of the Despotate.
Arta before 1205: A little-known provincial city.
Arta already played an important political role in antiquity, serving as the capital of Pyrrhus, King of Epirus, in the 3rd century BCE. Known then as Ambrakia, the city’s political significance faded over time, and by the Roman period, it had become relatively insignificant.
Little is known about its history during the early Byzantine period, when Arta belonged to the province of Epirus Vetus (Old Epirus), whose capital was Nikopolis. No monuments from this period have survived or been excavated, though architectural elements—most notably the column capitals of the church of Hagia Theodora, dating to the Justinianic period—were later incorporated into Byzantine structures. These elements likely originated from an important church of the time.
Some churches in the Arta area date back to the 9th or 10th century, though most were partially or entirely rebuilt under the Despotate of Epirus. Arta itself only begins to emerge from obscurity in historical sources at the end of the 11th century, when it is first referred to by its current name. The city is particularly mentioned from 1082 onward, when Emperor Alexios I Komnenos sought to expel the Normans from the western territories of the Byzantine Empire. Scholars suggest that during this period, Nikopolis, the capital of Old Epirus, gradually declined, and many of its inhabitants resettled in Arta, which offered greater security.
The city’s growing importance in the 12th century is evidenced by the presence of an archbishop, first mentioned in 1157, and the likely existence of an episkepsis (a type of ecclesiastical jurisdiction) within the Theme of Nikopolis. Additionally, Arta was a significant trade center in the 12th century, frequented by Venetian merchants, and home to a small Jewish community, as recorded by Benjamin of Tudela in the 1160s.
Arta, capital of the Despotate of Epirus.
With the fragmentation of the Byzantine Empire after the fall of Constantinople in 1204, Greek noble families seized power in various parts of the former empire. In Epirus, Michael I Komnenos Doukas established a new state centered on Arta. During this period, Arta’s population was also reinforced by refugees from Constantinople and from other regions affected by the Crusader conquests after 1204. Michael II (1231–1266/68) made Arta his capital, and the city became the largest and strongest administrative, political, and military center of his state. Important fortification works were carried out, and numerous religious buildings were restored or constructed, among which the Paregoritissa is perhaps the most remarkable. These developments transformed Arta into a major regional center of power and culture, fostering an original form of Byzantine art characterized by strong local particularities and influences from both the West and other Byzantine centers such as Thessaloniki and Constantinople.
The city’s economic importance, established at the end of the Middle Byzantine period, continued to flourish. The port of Kopraina served as a waterway for both trade and military purposes. Located at the mouth of the Arachtos—navigable up to Arta during the medieval period – in a wide, sandy, salt-producing zone, it functioned as the natural outlet of the Arta hinterland, facilitating the transport of agricultural, livestock, and fishery products (especially under the Orsini and Tocchi) to the castle and city of Arta, as well as the export of the city’s goods. An organized market is attested in the sources of the 14th century, located along the access leading to the main gate of the castle.
Archaeological excavations suggest local ceramic production, while the Chronicle of the Tocco describes Arta as the heart of a fertile agricultural region rich in water buffalo, cattle, and horses. After 1204, following the political changes that occurred, the city became a crossroads of commercial routes to the Balkans, Italy, and the Adriatic. The Venetians, who were supposed to receive most of Epirus according to the agreement after the fall of Constantinople, sought to sign commercial treaties with the Despotate of Epirus to control trade on advantageous terms – such as freedom of navigation and free trade in the Ambracian Gulf. They established trading posts along the entire Albanian and mainland coast, with Arta at their center. In parallel, merchants from Ragusa (Dubrovnik) also secured privileges. When Carlo I Tocco (1405–1430) deprived the Venetians of their commercial privileges, competition arose between merchants from both cities for access to the Arta market, which supplied dried meat, lard, ham, furs, and indigo.
Arta’s political significance and prosperity made it a target for both the Empire of Nicaea and the restored Byzantine Empire, particularly as the Despotate of Epirus weakened. Nicaean forces briefly captured the city in 1259 but failed to retain it.
The Chronicle of Morea reports that in 1304, Charles II of Naples sent troops to seize the Despotate of Epirus for his son. The invaders entered the city, which had been abandoned by its inhabitants, who had taken refuge in the castle. Anna Palaiologina and her son, the young Thomas, had retreated to the castle of Ioannina. The strength of the fortress discouraged the attackers, who instead turned to besiege the nearby castle of Rogon, another important stronghold in the area. There, they were confronted and defeated by Thomas’s forces, who had left Ioannina and were awaiting the outcome of the assault at the Monastery of Panagia Vlacherna near Arta. Having failed to capture any stronghold and running short on provisions, the enemy troops eventually withdrew.
The restored Byzantine Empire also pressed toward Arta: Andronikos II launched an unsuccessful attack, but Andronikos III finally seized it in 1338. After a rebellion led by Nikephoros Basilakes, the city surrendered to John VI Kantakouzenos. Subsequently, Arta changed hands repeatedly: it was conquered by Stefan Uroš IV Dušan, passed to the Albanians, and in 1416, fell to Carlo I Tocco. In 1449, it was finally captured by the Ottomans.
Byzantine Monuments in and around Arta: Churches, Monasteries, and other Landmarks.
Arta has retained several landmarks of its medieval past, though sometimes altered through its long history.
The castle.
The Castle of Arta stands majestically on a low hill, about 11 meters above sea level, on the northeastern side of the city, near the river Arachthos. It occupies the site of the acropolis of ancient Ambrakia, but today it serves as a representative example of the town’s medieval character, albeit modified during the Ottoman period.
Occupied since ancient times, the fortress displays constructions from different periods, beginning with remains of the walls of ancient Ambrakia. Traces of fortifications from the Middle Byzantine period are also preserved, although most of the medieval structures are thought to date from the time of the Despotate of Epirus, particularly during the rule of Michael II Komnenos Doukas.
The fortress held particular importance during the Despotate of Epirus as the seat of power of the ruling family. It likely housed the palace of the Despots. Parts of the original Byzantine walls and towers, as well as the remains of several Byzantine-era buildings and a number of inscriptions and sculptures, are still visible within the fortress today.
Repairs and additions were carried out during the remainder of the Byzantine era, while the Ottomans also made significant adaptations and modifications to the existing fortifications. This explains why certain parts of the structure appear predominantly post-Byzantine.
Dive more closely into the rich history of the castle of Arta.
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Castle of Arta: Byzantine Fortress and seat of the Despotes of Epirus
Step inside the Castle of Arta, a landmark of Byzantine Epirus, from its origins in ancient times to the Despotate of Epirus and Ottoman rule.
The bridge.
The Bridge of Arta is Greece’s most significant stone bridge, known for its unique architecture and widespread legends across the Balkans. It spans 145 meters, connecting both banks of the Arachthos River. Much of the bridge is now buried under soil. The bridge features four uneven semicircular arches, each with a different diameter, plus smaller arches that enhance its visual appeal. The cobbled pathway is 3.75 meters wide and rises asymmetrically.
Scholars disagree on the dating of the bridge. Some consider the foundations of the piers to be of Hellenistic origin; however, recent studies have shown that the course of the Arachtos River was probably different during Antiquity. They also acknowledge Byzantine contributions to its construction, and the common opinion attributes the building of the bridge to the Despotate of Epirus, suggesting that a large part of the pedestals – up to the height of the arch – dates from that period.
However, its construction was not an easy endeavor. It seems that between 1215 and 1222, five wooden bridges and two stone bridges collapsed. The flood of 1215 proved particularly catastrophic, inundating two-thirds of Byzantine Arta and prompting many inhabitants to leave. The Despots of the time, Nikephoros Komnenos Doukas and Anna Palaiologina Kantakouzene, in an attempt to console the surviving population, are said to have ordered the construction of the Church of the Panagia Paregoritissa and a new bridge. Scholar Schismenos (2000) considers that the song and legend of the construction of the most famous Greek bridge – the Bridge of Arta – well known throughout much of the Balkans, could date back to this period.
The bridge’s design indeed appears to carry Christian symbolism, which could indicate a Byzantine original design preserved over the centuries. It features twelve arches, likely symbolizing the Twelve Apostles, with the four largest arches representing the four principal Apostles. An off-axis arch is thought to symbolize Judas, who betrayed Jesus. Next to their symbolism, these 8 small arched openings had a more practical function, channeling the water in case of a flood and thus reducing the pressure on the structure and the risk of its collapse.
Nonetheless, it is certain that the bridge underwent major repairs or reconstruction during the Ottoman period, probably shortly after the conquest of Arta by the Turkish commander Faik Pasha in 1449. The Ottoman traveler Evliya Çelebi mentions that the bridge was built by Faik Pasha in the late 15th century. Scholars generally agree that this account likely refers to repairs deemed necessary by the new rulers of the city on the older structure.
It is generally thought that the bridge acquired its final form at the beginning of the 17th century. Scholars differ in their opinions as to the exact date: some suggest 1602, others 1606, but the prevailing view (following the view of Theocharis Tsoutsinos) is that the main arch collapsed – or was demolished – in 1612 and had to be rebuilt, an endeavor that lasted three years. This reconstruction is said to have inspired another legend – of a fortunate grocer from Arta named Ziannis Thiakogiannis, nicknamed Gatofagos – who allegedly financed the project entirely with his own money, thanks to a hidden treasure.
Most likely, this final phase of construction was again a repair effort following the collapse of part of the main part of the bridge, and the arch was reconstructed even higher than before. The difference of masonry, which appears consistent on the bridge except on the main arch, supports this view.
Byzantine churches and monasteries in and around Arta.
The most remarkable monuments of Arta and its surroundings are its churches and monasteries. Some of these structures contain elements dating back to the 9th and 10th centuries, often taking the form of simple wooden-roofed basilicas, occasionally topped with domes on high cylindrical drums, as seen in Saint Demetrios tou Katsouris. Others, like Saint Basil tes Gephyras (early 9th century), follow a free-standing cross plan. However, the peak of construction activity in Arta occurred during its time as the capital of the Despotate of Epirus in the 13th century, when many of these older churches were also renovated.
The period of the Despotate of Epirus marked an intense artistic flourishing in Arta, where a distinctive Byzantine style of art and architecture developed. The strength of local traditions, combined with Western influences and connections to other Byzantine centers – including Constantinople – resulted in highly original architectural forms. Many 13th-century churches feature bands of brick and multicolored ceramic decoration, while some incorporate figural plaques and stone sculptures on column capitals and tombs – elements less common in traditional Byzantine art.
Discover some of the most remarkable religious in and around Arta below.
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Church of Panagia Paregoritissa, Byzantine masterpiece in Arta
Discover the Panagia Paregoritissa in Arta, a masterpiece of the Despotate of Epirus, with innovative architecture and striking mosaics.
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Church of Saint Basil of the Market (Agios Vasileios Agoras) in Arta
Discover the Church of Saint Basil of the Market, one of the Byzantine churches in Arta, remarkable for its exterior decoration.
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Church of Saint Basil of the Bridge (Agios Vasileios tis Gefyras) in Arta
Discover the oldest church of Arta: Saint Basil of the Bridge (Agios Vasileios tis Gefyras), from the 9th century.
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Monastery of Panagia Vlacherna in Arta, legacy of the Despotate of Epirus
Discover the 13th-century Byzantine Monastery of Panagia Vlacherna in Arta, one of the best-preserved legacies of the Despotate of Epirus.
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Byzantine Church of Saint Theodora in Arta
The Church of Saint Theodora is located in the center of Arta, which was also the heart of the Byzantine city. Dating back to the late 11th century or mid-12th century, it originally served as the main church of a monastery dedicated to Saint George. The monastery’s significance transformed in the 13th century due to…
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Byzantine Monastery of Kato Panagia in Arta
Discover the 13th-century Byzantine monastery of Kato Panagia in Arta, whose main church stands as a fine legacy of the Despotate of Epirus.
Remarkable Byzantine artworks preserved in and around Arta.
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Byzantine frescoes of the monastery of Panagia Vlacherna in Arta
The 13th-century frescoes of Panagia Vlacherna in Arta stand as unique examples of the sophisticated art of Byzantine Epirus.
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The Mosaics of the Church of the Panagia Paregoritissa in Arta
Explore the Byzantine mosaics of Panagia Paregoritissa in Arta: a grand yet unfinished artistic legacy of the Despotate of Epirus.
Sources.
A. Ducellier, “Aux frontieres de la Romanie: Ana et Sainte-Maure a la fin du moyen age,” TM 8 (1981) 113-24.
P. Vokotopoulos, “Arta,” in Alte Kirchen und Kloster Griechenlands, ed. E. Melas (Schauberg 1972) 135-6.
Dorothea Papathanasiou, Konstantinos-Michael Photeinis, Aikaterini Schismenou, 10 Statements of Significance in ancient, byzantine, ottoman and modern Arta, Transnational Cooperation Programme Interreg Greece‐Albania 2014 ‐2020, 2021.
